Saturday, June 30, 2018

July 3rd Bonfires On Massachusetts Beaches


July 4th is a special day in America. On that date in 1776, our Founding Fathers signed a Declaration of Independence from their English colonial masters. This declaration led to a lengthy Revolution which chased those Limey Poofters back to their silly little island, and it led to the birth of the United States of America.

This is Independence Day #242, and we should get a few more off before the Chinese call in their markers.
Until that day comes, we shall celebrate July 4th. The basic plan for celebrating our national birthday was laid down in 1776, by John Adams.


I am apt to believe that it will be celebrated by succeeding generations as the great anniversary festival. It ought to be commemorated as the day of deliverance, by solemn acts of devotion to God Almighty. It ought to be solemnized with pomp and parade, with shows, games, sports, guns, bells, bonfires, and illuminations, from one end of this continent to the other, from this time forward forever more."
The last sentence of that statement is still the basic blueprint we follow today. If you have a bonfire, watch some TV, play some horseshoes, catch a baseball game, hit the gun range, attend Mass or go to a fireworks show.... John Adams called that shot 242 years ago, most likely right off the top of his head, too.
Today, we are going to focus on that Bonfire aspect. If you went on Family Feud and Steve Harvey asked you to name ways we celebrate July 4th, "Fireworks" would be #1, "Parades" would be #2... and after that, although it's a close race with "Cookouts," #3 would be "Bonfires."

Bonfires precede America, and actually go back to Caveman times. The English we chased away do a Guy Fawkes fire, and that tradition came to America with the settlers. 
George Washington himself denounced the practice, calling it a "ridiculous and childish custom." They got away from George's admonitions by just shifting the fires to July 4th.
Now, you may wonder how this tradition was allowed. London, Chicago, San Francisco, Lisbon, Atlanta, Dresden, Tokyo and many other cities have been destroyed by fire. 
You are forgetting how hardcore Americans are. In 1903, there were 400 deaths and 4000 injuries nationwide relating to July 4th celebrations, most from children shooting firearms off. It was bad enough that doctors at the time regularly offered a diagnosis of "patriotic tetanus" for early July injuries and deaths. Your second leading cause of Patriotic Tetanus were injuries inflicted by Remember-the-Maine era recreational gunpowder fireworks.


Compared to missing limbs and children with guns, the idea of pushing the local rowdies with bonfires on their minds onto an isolated beach with no combustible vegetation seemed like a pretty good idea. 
Fireworks were prohibited in most states, and fireworks shows became the realm of the municipality... or the realm of the guy willing to drive to New Hampshire and maybe smuggle back a little somethin-somethin'.
Some towns even took over the running of the bonfires, or banned them altogether. Boston took over the bonfires in 1915, and other towns followed suit. This gave the towns authority over July FOURTH fires, a distinction we'll discuss in a moment.



Gradually, the practice of bonfires faded away, especially in the west and mid-west parts of the country, which were tinderboxy after the Dust Bowl droughts. 
However, one section of the country, and you can probably guess who it is, held on tightly to the tradition. New Englanders are good like that. John Adams didn't invent those celebrations we quoted him on before. He just described the typical New England celebration.
Salem, known for her witches and hunts, is also known as the town who got the most into it. Cathedral-sized bonfires were regularly assembled on Gallows Hill, as the leftover wooden trash of both the shipbuilding era and the industrial era was stacked and ignited. You can see a ten story bonfire on Gallows Hill right here.
However, Salem's fires were on an inland hill, so- as large as they are- they don't really count. We're talking about beach fires, and July 3rd.
New England's coastal residents resisted the town's claims on bonfires. They didn't beat cops or secede from the towns, although that wasn't very far away in some situations. They just took over a different night. It makes pretty good sense. If the town is having an official fire or a fireworks show on the 4th, why not have one on the 3rdSh*t, you have the 4th off, and you need that down time after the 3rd. Gradually, the date of New England citizen fires shifted almost entirely to July 3rd



I grew up on Duxbury Beach, which has a tradition of bonfires stretching back to her very inhabitation by white folk. You can get stories from the Old School about bonfires 100 feet high in celebration of VE and VJ Day. I can kick it from the 70s, and our fires were giant and annual. They even did some good.
Beach communities suffer from nor'easters. Nor'easters aren't as bad as hurricanes, but hurricanes don't hit 2 or 3 times a winter. Nor'easters tear down decks, carry away stairs, smash up wooden lobster pots, expel driftwood, and generally clutter up the beach. Beach communities also "suffer" from gentrification, where yuppies buy up old people's summer cottages and build larger, year-round homes.
Much like the people of Salem, Duxbury Beach folk would feast upon the bounty of a bygone era. All of that wood was gathered up, de-nailed, and stacked in a sort of tipi-like structure. We built tipis instinctively, with not a Native American among us. By doing so, we cleared the neighborhood of clutter.


Factor in a wealthy neighborhood with some money to throw around (the typical ritual was that every house kicked in a $100, and someone went to New Hampshire... although my Dad was a Dorchester kid, and got his fireworks the Old School way, in Chinatown), and placid Duxbury Beach for one night would resemble Fallujah. The wood supply was enough that a mile stretch of Duxbury Beach and Green Harbor might have a dozen 25 foot fires, and copious fireworks explosions completed the illusion.
The funny part of the drunks-building-bonfires dynamic is that there has never been a fire related to the July 4th celebrations. This is notable because the principal method of starting a fire on the beach is to soak the wood in gasoline and then fire a Roman Candle into it from a dozen yards away.

Duxbury (the town) had their own fires for a while, and nearly torched the elementary school once in the late 1980s. Yes, a bunch of children and drunkards have never neared causing damage with their fires, while the town's DPW and fire department nearly burned down the school and the library.
Other towns are not as fun as Duxbury.  Marshfield nixes fires, although it's a big town with a lot of beach and the locals still blaze one up now and then. Hull, Cohasset, and Kingston also disallow them. Quincy was in the papers a few years ago, as the fire chief was weighing the possible outcomes of drunken Hough's Neck fires in high winds near a densely packed urban area. 


Who still represents? Who allowed themselves to be backed down? 
I did a survey in every Facebook group for a Massachusetts town with a coastline. Please note that the Irish Riviera is in a class by themselves with bonfires, and that Scituate, Marshfield, Duxbury and Plymouth have sections of this article to themselves.
 I asked the same question to each group:
"Does your town have July 3rd bonfires? Did you have them in years gone by? Were they built by the town or by the residents of the beach? If you no longer have fires, why did you stop?"
As near as I can tell, the score goes like this...
Westport... no fires
Falmouth... answers range from "No" to "Some community beaches" to "Only when the fireworks barge explodes."
Kingston. ..not enough beach
Cohasset... banned
Quincy... my notes from my 2015 article that I lifted most of this article from mentioned that they were weighing the Banning of bonfires at Hough''s Neck, but to be quite honest, I forgot how that turned out (Editor: they still have fires)
Marion... town fires

Wareham... Shell Point, decades ago, where the parking lot is now
Bourne... town fire, before Thanksgiving
Hull... one of my favorite answers which went along the lines of "Oh you mean bonfires where people would steal porch furniture throw it into the bonfire? Yeah it's been decades."
Barnstable..."in the marsh," "back in the 60s," "Centerville during Old Home Week" and "American Legion used to run it."

Fairhaven... West Island in the 60s... Bonfires allowed with permit, July 4-7
Sandwich..."We'd always go to Plymouth"
Weymouth... They had lots of fires in the old days, at Riverview, Old Beach and Woronocco Road. Tides, which have been awful for years ("awful" meaning "the tides were high when darkness fell"... notice how many daylight bonfire shots I had to use for this article), were the compelling reason for this lack of recent fires.

Dartmouth...banned, but they also have a college in town.
Wellfleet/Truro... They had them in the 50s on Mayo Beach, with a unique local touch of putting an outhouse on top (Duxbury Beach locals, who loved the Sox, would burn a New York Yankee in effigy, via a baseball card. This stopped in 1980 out of respect to Thurman Munson, who had died the previous year in a fiery plane crash). A drunk nearly died when he tried to climb into the outhouse, hopefully pre-ignition. This may have ended the bonfires out there. (Editor: Truro issues beach fire permits)
Eastham... They still have them. Like in Duxbury, you have to get a permit. They are limited (only 4 fires allowed by Coast Guard Beach), limit the number of people you can have around it, must be oceanside and are difficult to get. We are talking Douglas Adams levels of difficult, along the lines of "You have to show up three weeks prior at the office of a guy who is only in at 5 a.m. and the office is at the bottom of a hidden stairway in a room without lights next to a sign that says 'Beware Of The Leopard ' and you then click your heels together three times."
Some towns (New Bedford, Brewster, Mattapoisett, Chatham, DY) either failed to respond or I am not in a group for them. All except Betty seem to be good bets for blazing.



Plymouth still has fires, as Manomet bonfires go back to the 1800s, and White Horse Beach can claim a 1777 starting date. Plymouth tried a ban in the 1980s, and police were pelted with rocks and fireworks by locals who didn't get a say in the decision to ban. Civil disobedience acts like building a pallet structure and not igniting it as an homage to bygone days began to spring up. Scituate made the papers when they put the Whammy on bonfires, and Humarock almost seceded from the town over it after police roughed up a 70 year old man in a confrontation.
I never made it to the Cape for the 3rd and am not up on how Cape Cod gets down on the 3rd. I suppose I can call some police departments, and maybe I will, but I don't like to draw attention to myself.
(Time passes...)
OK, I called Bourne PD, got a befuddled dispatcher, and she said no fires, no permit for fires, and she wasn't sure if any neighborhoods frequently violate the law. I'd guess that Scusset Beach might try something. Monument Beach, PocassetCataumet and Mashnee are also fine spots for a little civil disobedience.
I called Sandwich, and it went straight to voice mail. Same with Falmouth. Brewster had an operator who transferred me to a Captain (while on hold, BPD plays rock music over the phone to me), and I went straight to his voice mail. I wasn't going to call 911 over it, so you'll just have to take your chances, people.
Duxbury, in theory, allows a bonfire with a $25 permit. I don't live there now, and I'm not sure who builds the fires on Duxbury Beach these days. Maybe I'll get to see the cops beat down some 2018 version of me. I'll get a few laughs out of it, but I'll also feel a bit winsome, as I'll be watching a centuries-old tradition die in front of me.
"Rage, rage against the dying of the light."









Duxbury Beach, Late June

You can eat lunch at a filthy McDonald's booth, or you could head down to Duxbury Beach and have lunch in style. 


If the gods disagreed, they have a funny way of showing it. The weather was amazing.


Ant-on-the-seawall view of the D, facing north.


The McLaughlin cottage is pretty much the last property on Duxbury Beach with that Summer Of 42 look, at least from afar.


I shan't pass a cool Italian flag (respectfully flown below Old Glory, of course) without getting my click on. While Duxbury Beach is solidly Irish Riviera, the Pasta People get a cottage now and then.


Of course, the important part of the previous caption was "Irish Riviera."

It is never fun when I have to point out the flaws of our photographers, especially when I'm the photographer... and yes, that is my finger in the left side of the shot

I did okay here, as long as you don't mind Manomet being on a slight slant.


The fun part about this shot is that the sandy yard belongs to a guy with exceptional lawn skills. It's sandy now, but I think they will be able to putt on it soon enough...once he stares at it for a summer weekend


The legendary public stairs, in decay. They are officially closed, although one gentleman yesterday may have engaged in an Act of Civil Disobedience and opened them unilaterally 


No place on Duxbury Beach needs a mural more than this area.


This, which was a gorgeous yard before last March, now looks like the quarry that Fred and Barney work at.


We get complaints that we only cover Duxbury Beach during storms, but today that will not be a problem.




Tuesday, June 26, 2018

The Bouchard At Sagamore


We caught the Bouchard as she went under the Sagamore Bridge.


She had some help from the tugboat, seen below...


There she is...





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